A New Trail

From our small airplane window we spotted Everest in the distance. It is amazing what airplanes can do. In only half and hour we were landing in the city life of Kathmandu where as it had taken a solid 12 hours of bumping over treacherous mountain roads to get to Jiri about a week before. The trek was beyond words. Not just for the mountain sights that rewarded us after intense elevation climbs, but for the nourishment it gave us physically, mentally, and spiritually.
The highlight came on the third day. We had reached the small village of Junbesi the night before and set off early in the morning to hike to the back of the valley where we reached the monastery, Thupten Choling. This closed monastery not only houses 500 nuns and monks, but many Tibetan refugees as well. We were honored to enter this sanctuary - greeted by a third generation doctor of the Dalai Lama. As we sipped tea and listed to a quick explanation of traditional Tibetan medicine snow began to fall. As we headed up to the main monastery for more tea, lunch, and a small blessing thunder echoed through the Himals. By the time we left, in utter awe, the previously sunny trail had been transformed into a peaceful and still wonderland that much reflected my inner state of being.

A Healing Trip

"India is like LSD" the hotel manager of The tucked away Hotel Ganesh says to me "sometimes you have a very good trip and others times a very terrifying one." "But," he continues "all you have to do is sit and watch the gentle waves of the Gangama (the Ganges River) and your worries will float away for the Mother Ganges is like life itself".

The power of the holy river is palpable in it's cooling breezes. In a place where holding ones breath may at times seem healthier than the air, the river provides a chance to breath deeply. As we glided across it on a small row boat this morning, coated in a foggy layer which faded seamlessly into the darkness I thought of how nice it might be to buy my own boat and row people from around the world along one of the holiest rivers. I would show them the ancient city with it pilgrims bathing and mourners watching their loved ones be released from their physical form by smokey flames. After a hard day I would relax at karki's authentic Italian restaurant and enjoy their homemade pasta before returning to my quite flat overlooking the 2000 year old holy well.

The rhythms of the temple drums brought me back from this day dream to realize what a special spiritual trip we are on and how fortunate we are to glimpse so intimately into the beauty of so many people and cultures.

-Hali

An Offering

Being the object of anyone and everyone's stares seems to be the norm in this vast country.  Even the cows stare at you when you walk down the street.  Being laughed at is just as normal.  Around 5:30 am this morning, I was walking backwards and putting rose petals in bowls of water all around the main temple.  A nun happened to walk by me and immediately burst into laughter.  She started speaking rapidly in another language and my eye brow raised look of confusion sent her into another fit of giggles.  What could I do but laugh hysterically myself??? As we wobbled our way past a monk, she pointed to me, said another uncomprehensible something, and he too joined into our laughing fest.  I left the temple feeling slightly dazed, confused, and absolutely filled with joy.

~ Cerri 

Shedool

In the Delhi train station, it took us 12 hours of waiting to figure out that "shedool" actually means schedule. Yes, we were those lucky ducklings who happened to be on the train that was "put back"... for 12 hours.  Once we decided that the train wasn't actually ever going to arrive and that we would have to bunk down for the night, it showed up! We climbed on for a 20 hour trip to Bodh Gaya.

I don't have time to describe the extent of the beauty of this place, but I'll leave you with this: 

Imagine a tall, wide based obelisk with incredible geometric patterns carved into all the sides. Every nook has an ornate figure, and every figure has a marigold chain draped around its neck.  In fact, everything is covered in marigold chains of orange and yellow, or red rose petals and lotuses.  When one looks to the base of the temple, it is a sea of maroon and gold- the robes of over 6,000 monks. As their chanting reverberates through the air, the smoke of incense curls into one's nostrils.  We are at the place of Buddha's Enlightenment.